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DIY HID Conversion Installation
 

Tools needed: 10mm socket (optional)
Procedure:
1. Make sure that you have all the necessary components in the conversion box. They include: 2 HID 35W Bulbs, 2 Ballasts with ignitor and polarity adjuster integrated, 2 Ballast pads (useless), Zip Ties, Assorted Screws, bolts, and washers (useless), Stators (useless) etc.
2.  Chuck the instruction "pamphlet" right in the circular file and don't ever refer to it. Firstly, it refers to the hood as a bonnet and secondly, it tells you to remove your headlight assembly and start drilling away with a 22mm hole cutter.
3. Remove your stock (or xenon piece of shit) light bulbs and leave the harnesses hanging. If you notice, the ballast has a black and a red wire with a prongy thingy at the end.
4. They are making this too easy....Notice the black and red wires leading to the factory bulb harness.
5. I wonder what you do next? My guess was to put the prongy thingys into the holes on the factory harness matching up the color wires. Make sure you jam them in there tightly, so that the rubber is insulating the prong and the harness.
6. Grab one of the 35W HID bulbs and make sure you don't drop it, scratch it, hump it, breathe on it, throw it in an open flame, etc, etc, etc. My point is that if the glass is scratched or has oil on it from your fingers, it may possibly explode when it has 25,000 volts running through it. Not a good thing...
7. Now insert the wires and harnesses on the bulb into the harnesses on the ballast. There is only one way they can go, so if you screw this up, you need to kill yourself. Then insert the bulb into the headlight assembly very carefully like you would with a normal bulb. Then push the foam around the outside of the hole to insulate it from moisture.
8. Now, the hard part: finding a suitable place for the ballast. The holes in the ballast to mount with screws are useless since they are too close to the body of it, so any screw turning involved won't work. This took me about half an hour. I mounted the passenger side snugly between the ABS relay and ABS modulator. It fits snugly, so I didn't have to tie it down at all. Then I zip tied the wires and tucked them between the ABS modulator and chassis.
9. I also zip tied the passenger side wires to one of the ABS modulator pipes to make sure they weren't going anywhere.
10. The drivers side required a bit more intuition considering the complete lack of anywhere suitable to mount the ballast because of a) moving parts b) hot parts or c) no where wide or snug enough to cram it into. I put it against the chassis and secured it with picture hanging wire on both sides. One wire going through the front part of the chassis and one going through the bolt that holds the windshield washer fluid reservoir filler on. (That is where that 10mm socket would come in handy)

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